Education/How-To

It may seem early for this post, but I had time to write it and was inspired!  Enjoy!

Okay, so you didn’t learn your lesson from my do it yourself family photo debacle, and you’re determined to do your family’s Christmas card photos.  It’s ridiculous, you say, to spend $1500 on a photo shoot, you have a nice camera, and it’s decided; there’s no talking you out of it!  Well, lucky for you, I understand!  With all of the other holiday hub-bub, it’s difficult to remember to get your family portrait session scheduled.  Most professionals are doing Christmas photos in October or early November and you can’t squeeze it in, or maybe there’s just not a professional in your area you trust.  Whatever the reason, Becky is here to save the day with some more INCREDIBLE photo tips!

I know you’re going to think I’m a lush, but because this does involve the whole family – you’ll NEED a glass of wine.

Normally, I would suggest setting everything up and then, when your scene is perfect, inviting your family into the set.  However, we’re going in a whole new direction this time.  The first item on your checklist is to set a day and put it on the calendar.  Announce the date to your family; might I suggest the following, “Family, I have decided that Saturday hence will be Christmas Card Photo Day!”  (It’s much more effective when spoken in a British accent!)  Immediately after the announcement, take the family shopping.  Buy festive (inexpensive) shirts, garland, lights, tinsel, fun ornaments – anything that will add to the spirit!

Before the photo day arrives,  do a Google search to find a wireless remote that is compatible with your camera.  Most Canon and Nikon DSLRs have one available for around $20.  You might also be able to find one in your local camera store.  A wireless remote is almost a necessity.

The day before the shoot, charge your camera’s battery, make sure there is empty space on your memory card, and be sure you can attach the camera to the tripod (for some reason, I always lose the screw piece for this step).  If possible, ensure the whole family eats a healthy diet and gets a good night’s sleep.  Seriously.

Alright, the day is here!  I can feel your enthusiasm from across the web!  This is going to be the pinnacle of your acquaintances’ card collection – you just KNOW everything is going to be PERFECT!  Go drink that glass of wine.  Now.  With your tempered excitement, comment throughout the day about how much fun the photo shoot is going to be!  You really want to hype this up, we’re going to make it a blast.  Start singing Christmas carols!  About an hour before you’re ready to photograph, after you’ve all donned your holiday gear, set up your camera.  Start with the backdrop, you can use a wall, a large piece of fabric, or go crazy and build a set.  Invite the family to help you.  If you’re using natural light, you’ll want your family to stand just at the edge of the window, so your backdrop will need to be behind this area by at least two or three feet.  Next, put your camera on the tripod and get the settings dialed in.  Start with your white balance.  Try setting on ‘shade’, ‘cloudy’, and ‘daylight’ to see which you prefer.  Next, you’ll adjust your aperture.  If there are four people in your family, set the aperture to 4.0.  If there are five people in your family, set the aperture to 5.6.  If there are six, seven or eight people in your family, set the aperture to 8.0. The shutter speed should be set on 1/100th of a second (may display as only 100 on your camera).  Now, get your exposure to “correct” by adjusting your ISO – you’ll probably need a pretty high setting: 800 or even 1600. Ask one of the kids to stand in as a test subject, and make sure you like what you’re seeing on the back of your camera.  Because we are working with pretty small apertures  you *might* have to pop up a flash 🙁  If you do, manually adjust it so that it’s at half or even 1/4 power (use your camera’s manual to find out how).  You’re window is the main light, so you’ll just use the flash for fill light ( I know, that’s a pretty techie word, please forgive me!)  Look through the viewfinder and put some markers on the floor using tape showing what your camera sees.  This is just to give you some boundaries – everyone will know to stay between the tapes to ensure they are in the frame.  When you’re ready, turn up the Christmas music and place your family.

Wrap each other in lights and garland. Play, laugh, tell jokes, whatever needs to happen to make it fun!  And, while you’re having fun, point the remote at the camera every few seconds and capture the memories!  Ta da!  After the session, make some cookies and hot chocolate and put on a Christmas movie.  Maybe this could be a new holiday tradition!

 

 

I didn’t follow all of my own advice in the following photos (I left out the wine and the relax parts), but it was the most fun we’ve had with a DIY photo shoot thus far!  Also, I was using my studio lights rather than window lighting.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Was this helpful?  Let me know in the comments!

I’ve had a few people ask me what camera I would recommend, and it rolls nicely into a blog post.

Questions to ask yourself when buying a camera:
How much weight do I want to carry?
How much do I know about photography?
What type of photos will I be taking?
What will I do with the photos I take?
Do I want a built-in flash?
What does my budget look like?

I recommend the Canon Digital Rebel (I don’t care which one) 99% of the time. It’s a smaller, lightweight, consumer camera with great picture quality. The frame rate (how many shots per second) makes it great for sports/action, it’s excellent for someone learning the craft of photography and at around $700 its not expensive (comparatively). If you’ve been using an entry level SLR for a while and you’re ready to upgrade, check out the Canon 60D (the 70D is also on pre-order), or the 7D. The 7D is the oldest camera in the Canon line up and while I think it’s an AWESOME camera, it is a little outdated now. Either upgrade will at least double your cost. The 60D is about $2000 and the 7D is around $1500. The only reason to upgrade to the $3500 5D Mark III is if you’re a professional. As a consumer you’re not going to use the benefits it gives you and you’re paying almost $3000 more. And that’s without a lens.

Okay, I’ve convinced you that the Canon Digital Rebel is the camera for you. The rebel comes with a nice lens, but you’ll want to add at least one more lens to your lineup. Buy the Canon 50mm 1.4 lens. It’s about $300, but WORTH IT! The dude at the camera store might try to talk you into the 50mm 1.8 at $150, but say, “No thank you, I want the good one.” The 1.4 is sturdier and gives sharper image quality, and if you’re paying $800 for your camera, you want a great lens. Now for zooms. If you photograph many sporting events, as many parents do, you may find the need for a telephoto zoom lens. I would HIGHLY recommend that before you purchase another lens you learn how to use your camera on Manual. You need to understand how to get the shots your want and WHAT YOUR CAMERA IS DOING to get those shots. Many lower end zooms have a floating aperture* and this can really mess up a manual shooter. Once you understand your camera and what it’s doing, you’ll be more open to the possibility of paying close to $1000 for a telephoto zoom. I can not stress enough the importance of learning to use your camera; it will broaden your world. 🙂

 

So, you’re going to leave the camera store with your Canon Digital Rebel camera and kit lens ($800), your Canon 50mm 1.4 ($300), two UV filters to protect your lenses ($40), and a decent camera bag to put it all in ($80).  You are going to be smart and invest in a class to learn how to use your camera ($25-$50) and use the two lenses you have extensively before you make your next lens purchase.  A wonderful investment for documenting your family.

 

Questions?  Please leave comments!

*Lower end lenses (and even some pro-level) have a floating aperture. This means the fastest “speed” or f/number of the lens (how wide the opening) changes depending upon whether or not the lens is zoomed. For example the lens that comes with most entry level cameras is labeled EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6. This tells us that the lens when not zoomed can open to an aperture of f/3.5, however when it is zoomed out fully the aperture can only open to f/5.6. I know this is technical, but another way of looking at it is it cuts the amount of light coming in by more than half just by zooming the lens. This could really mess you up if you’re in a lower light situation and aren’t paying attention.

Lighting is the foundation of photography; without light we have a black sensor.  Understanding light will free your mind to think creatively and will take your work to a new level. 

This class is kind of like a “Get Out of Jail Free” card.  Sometimes, we as photographers fall into the profession.  We take great snapshots;  family and friends want to pay us and we say, “Sounds Wonderful”!  Then as reality sets in we realize that great snapshots will not pay the bills- our work looks like everyone else’s; we need great photographs.  We know we should know the lingo, but we are a couple of years into our business and cannot carry on an intelligent conversation about the industry we represent.  It all seems so boring:  f/stops, shutter speeds, ISO.  Reciprocity laws, white balance, short light, broad light, soft light, hard light.  All terms you should know by now, but somehow, you’ve missed the class on lighting.  Plus, you can’t really TELL anyone that you don’t know, because you’re the professional – you’re supposed to know. 

Sound familiar?  This Super Monday class is for you!  We will cover in depth all things lighting!  If you’ve never used a light meter, if you’ve never set a custom white balance, if you’ve never used your speedlights off camera:  this class will inspire you!  If you can’t identify lighting patterns, or don’t know how to soften shadows, this class will be the ah-ha! you’ve been searching for.  Just one day and $120 will change your business.  I’m so looking forward to seeing you there!

Bring your camera bag!  There will be plenty of hands-on time to play. 

This class is intended for the professional photographer who has been photographing for a while – it is not a “how to use your camera” class.

If you have questions, or would like to attend, just send me an email:  becky@rebecca-williams-photography.local  The class is on Monday, May 13th and is being held at the Brides in Bloom photography studio.

 

 

This one is quick and easy to remember – the rule of thirds!  This ancient rule isn’t specific to photography; if you study the master painters of old, you’ll see this compositional rule put in to practice.  The rule of thirds is simply – “Put your subject on one of the thirds of your frame – not the center.”  Imagine a grid on your viewfinder, dividing your view into 9 parts, put your subject on one of those lines.  If your image is a close up, put the subject’s eye on one of the intersecting points.

Composing in this manner creates more interest in the image, causing the viewer to wonder what’s going on and ask more questions.  To ponder.

See?  More “wonder”. 🙂

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Light painting is something I’ve always wanted to try, but never really wanted to take the time to practice with.   Photography, like all forms of art, is multi-layered, and multi-leveled.  I quite frequently find myself stuck in the doldrums, using the same techniques with all of my work.  But, standing still is falling behind, so I try to push myself when I start to feel stagnant.  It was time.  The image came to me while I was using a c-130 model airplane as a “cookie” (to create shadows).  I imagined a c-130 ringed by a pink heart – symbolizing my husband’s aircraft holding my heart – or something like that.

First, I knew I’d need a “tool kit”.  Luckily, Ryan had given me a “just because” gift of a keychain flashlight in the shape of a Canon lens that morning.  To make the light pink, I needed gels.  To light the c-130, I needed a flash, and I modified the flash with a spot grid to control spill.  After a few attempts at free handing a heart, I made a cutout from cardboard, and taped it to a stick.  This was a perfect time to use my wireless remote.  As a bonus, I used my son’s Legos to build a pedestal on which to rest the model.

 

I spent a good hour and a half trying to perfect my capture, and I never quite got the image I saw in my head but I came close, and it was a fun learning experience.  If you don’t have a flash, you can still paint with light, just follow these steps.

Setup:

Mount your camera on a tripod.

Set the Mode dial to “Bulb”.

Set the ISO to 200.

Set your Aperture to f/11 or f/16.

You’ll need to manually focus your lens on the spot where you’ll paint.

Set your camera to the “remote/timer” drive setting.

Set your wireless remote to the “2 second delay”.

Sit (or stand), facing your camera’s lens.

Point your remote at the camera and hit the shutter button.  This will stop down your aperture and will BEGIN the capture.

Quickly, turn on your flashlight and draw or write (you’ll have to write backwards).

When you’re finished, point the remote at the camera and press the shutter button again.  This will END the capture.

Repeat!  Try wrapping colored cellophane on your flashlight.

Adding a flash gives you the ability to light a subject in addition to your light painting.  You’ll need to do your light painting after (or before depending on your settings) the flash fires, and ensure you are not in the capture.   Questions?  Please ask!  Like this post?  Please share!

The final images were edited in Photoshop to remove the Lego pedestal.

Don’t forget to hit “share” if you enjoyed this post!

It’s 2013, and I’ve not updated my blog; I’ll be attending a photography conference next week, then my family is taking an extended vacation; therefore, I probably won’t be quite as “active” as I should be until mid-February. I’m making this post count.
This is a big one. I would almost go so far as to say this is “THE” tip that will change your photography. I’ve mentioned this in every how-to post I’ve done, but I’ve not mentioned the importance or impact it can have. So, here goes: White Balance.
Light is a science, and I’ll try to stay away from too much technical detail, but one of the ways photographers evaluate light is “color”. What color is the light? Light at sunset is a different color than at mid-day. Tungsten (regular bulbs) has a different color than florescent. Our eyes have the ability to adjust for this color change – our eyes know that a piece of paper is white whether we are inside, outside, or upside down. Unfortunately, cameras were developed by man, not God, and so they don’t have the ability to adjust quite so well. Your camera “sees” the color of the light, and although it is quite competent at choosing the color and making the appropriate corrections, it doesn’t always get it right – especially in a situation where two light colors are present, or where there is a heavy color cast. We have to tell our cameras what color light we are shooting in. Our cameras have pre-set White Balance selections: shade, cloudy, tungsten, fluorescent, daylight, etc. But the most powerful setting is “custom”. Let me show you why.
This week, I rearranged and cleaned out my daughter’s bedroom, and to complete the transformation, I replaced her purple canvas drapes with pink sheer curtains. As you can imagine, when the light shines through her window her entire room glows pink!

While this is very appropriate if you know my daughter, I knew this was the perfect image to show the power of Custom White Balance. Once you fully grasp the power of White Balance, your whole world will change. You can use it creatively – to color your world – to change the mood of a scene. White balance gives you one more avenue with which to own your DSLR. So, here we go… First, let’s see what happens when I set my camera to “Auto White Balance”:

Good, but I can do better. My camera is guessing at “what does White look like in this light?”, and it’s making a very educated, calculated guess, and coming up with “almost”. So, I’ll help it along. I will tell it what white looks like, by using the “Custom White Balance” setting. To use this setting, your camera reads what white looks like from an image that you’ve taken (of a white index card, or a gray target) in the current light, and makes the necessary tweaks. This is the image after setting a Custom White Balance.

Obviously, Abigail was not as enthused as I about rocking your world, but this will change your photography if you learn to use it. The beauty is, none of these images are “wrong”! I can marry what my eyes “see” with how my mind “sees” it. I LOVE the first image of Abigail coated with pink light – that was the image in my mind. If I set my camera to “Auto”, it would give me the second image. And if I wanted to try for the most natural skin tone, I would use image number three. There is no wrong, but it is so powerful knowing that I can tell my camera what to do.
Those yellow glows in photos you take in the evening without flash? White Balance. Those bluish photos you take in the shade outside? White Balance. Boring blah photos on a gray rainy day? White Balance. Check your camera’s manual to learn how to set a custom white balance, and stick a plain white index card in your camera bag. Then go to my facebook page and tell me how much you LOVE your new skills!